Where
is the best placement for
a radiant barrier? Radiant barrier, cellulose, home, energy,
fiberglass,
radiant barrier, attic insulation, energy conservation, green building


Where Should Radiant Barrier Be Installed?
Fact: There is more bad information about radiant barriers than
there is good. Many sites are
outdated.
Fact: Radiant barriers are not rated using the R
factor
Fact: Radiant barrier was not invented by NASA, it
was invented by Sir James Dewar, a Scottish physicist who invented the
Thermos Bottle among other things.
Fact: Lowering the emissivity of a surface
(which is one aspect of a radiant barrier), can have negative consequences, as
in making your home use more power and become more
uncomfortable if placed in the wrong
area.
Reality: Radiant heat is not just from the sun, radiant heat is everywhere and
is the fastest way heat enters your home during the summer and contributes to large
losses during the winter. Many radiant barrier systems (RBS), are designed to be placed at
the roof to either reflect radiant heat or lower the emissivity from bare wood
at .95 to something lower. Many things
happen:
-
This
application has absolutely
no benefit during the winter, despite how mild your winters are.
Would it not make sense to purchase and install a product to control heat gain
and heat loss? This way your investment pays off all year and
increases comfort all year.
-
Lowering
the emissivity of a roof decking the attic with silver paint, laminated
foil, or stapling a radiant barrier up under the roof decking raises the temperature of the surface
above it, that's just basic physics and common sense. If radiant heat
is restricted from emitting from a surface (as in the bottom
of your roof decking, a chrome car bumper or a chrome socket in your
toolbox), heated by the sun, where does this heat go? With lower
emissivity it's going to increase the roof temperature and have to radiate back out...one problem: the sun
is beating on it at the same time. Is that going make your
roof hotter? Of course it is. Is this going to extend the life
of your roofing system? (shingles or on tile roofs, the underlayment?). I'm
not going to leave myself open telling you my experiences so let me tell you what
the largest shingle manufacturer told me during a recent phone call:
(question) "Yes, I have a question. Will installing a radiant
barrier under the roof affect the warranty of your product?" (answer)
"Our 25 year warranty covers manufacturers defects". When pressed
for an answer regarding the installation of a radiant barrier
and elevated roof temperatures I was again told: "Our warranty
only covers manufacturers defects, that's all I'm
going to say, goodbye". It seems I'm not the only one afraid to touch on
this topic so that leaves the reader on his/her own to decide if increasing
the roof temperature is going to lessen the life of the roofing system by
making it hotter and drying it out. Really a problem with concrete tile
roofs that rely on a thin piece of bitumen based (tar), felt (paper), to keep
the ceiling dry. When this dries out and curls up, all the tile has to
come off, all the wood strips, all the underlayment, and
be replaced. Homes around here are having to have it done at the tune of
$8,000 which is mostly labor. Think twice before spraying paint under your roof, buying foil backed
OSB or stapling a reflective membrane up under the roof deck.
-
If
increasing the roof
deck temperature when lowering the emissivity under the roof increases
roof temperature, how is this going to affect the air in the
attic that is in direct contact with this hotter roof? Stands to
reason if the roof deck is hotter, the attic air is going to get hotter
from the increased convective air movement from the hotter roof deck. If the air in the attic is getting hotter via
convection from the hotter roof, wont this in turn make the
insulation hotter and
the ducting
in the attic hotter? Hotter than a house without RBS on the bottom of roof
deck? Basic physics and the laws of thermodynamics guarantees it will and
the graph below illustrates
it.
-
Next question: If the attic
insulation gets hotter than an attic with bare wood, what happens when the sun
goes down, and the roof cools off? What
is this superheated insulation now facing? A radiant barrier. A radiant barrier which
now effectively holds the heat in the attic
for hours after the sun goes down. (again, see the graph below). We would
rather see the RBS right above the insulation, keeping heat out during
the summer and heat in during the winter. This also does not affect
roof temperature as the emissivity of the roof has stayed the
same. Covering the ducting in the attic with RBS is also
another significant energy conservation method. Click here
to
see our duct wrap
page.
-
Fact: Dust is a major problem with RBS rolled out over the attic
insulation. This is why our RBS
Chips and Thermal Control
Membrane have multiple layers to deal with this
problem. It's also proven, patented and once installed, will
change the way your home feels forever.
-
More facts: Insulation has a tremendous potential
for storing heat. Insulation resists heat loss (R factor). Here's a good question: If you
are outside in January at night, would you put a sweater on?
Question #2: Do you wear sweaters in August when
you working out in the yard? In the sun??? And your home
has walls and ceilings packed with sweaters? To keep the heat
out????
We have developed innovative, proven methods that
far exceed the performance of conventional insulation products. Read on
and become enlightened and once aware of what the alternatives are, you can
make better decisions on obtaining comfort for less cost.
Before you spend your
energy conservation dollars on anything, especially a radiant barrier product,
do some research, follow the logical path and ask a lot of questions.
Specifically, ask for a lifetime performance warranty
and compare samples.
RBS placement in the attic
is very
important
In the summer of 1993
an Arizona electric utility began testing the performance of three
types
of Radiant Barrier Systems (RBS) in three different placements in four
identical
unoccupied homes. One home was a control house with no RBS. Data
collection
included time, temperature and measurement of power usage. All power
was
shut off in these homes except for the heat pump. The results of this
testing
brought to light some interesting data as shown below. Our product, RBS
Chips, is outlined in green

The graph above
illustrates some interesting points:
Depending on the
climate your home is located, RBS placement is critical not only to
performance, but
to prevent damaging condensation problems within your walls and
insulation.
UNDER THE ROOF DECKING
Placing a radiant barrier directly under the
roof decking as illustrated above raises the attic temperature (and energy
consumption), between 2pm and 8pm. The reason is simple, when
the inside roof deck
surface emissivity is lowered from .95 (bare
wood), to a lower value the result is a hotter substrate hence the logic behind
the radiant barrier. This is a perfect application for a flat or
nearly flat roof deck. The reason being, the increased temperature of
the roof deck will not create convective movement since the roof is not
pitched. The steeper the roof, the more convection there will
be which in turn heats up the attic insulation and once the sun goes down,
the elevated attic insulation is now facing the radiant barrier on the
bottom of the roof. Again, this only applies to
pitched roofs.
Spraying a roof silver
underneath the roof deck or using a plywood decking product with a
radiant barrier laminated
to
it as can be seen above is an improper installation, especially if
the attic is vented to standard venting
code.
Solution: Our RBS Chip
product works everyday, all year keeping heat out during the summer and heat in
during the winter. RBS Chips are perfect for cold climates where moisture
egress is a consideration. In hot climates our Thermal Control Membrane
product is
best.
WALLS: Heating
Dominant
Climates (cold winters)
RBS sheeting
should be placed between the interior sheet
rock and wall insulation. This will act as a vapor barrier as well as
a radiant barrier, all seams must be taped.
IMPORTANT! Do not place a non permeable membrane of any type
between
the wall insulation and the outside wall. Water may condense on the
film
creating all kinds of problems including but not limited to: wood rot,
mildew,
ruined insulation and unwanted critters.
WALLS: Cooling
Dominant
Climates (mild winters, hot summers)
In climates where the night
temperatures rarely gets below freezing, our
Thermal
Control Membrane can be placed on the outside of
the exterior sheathing and finished wall system (stucco, brick, siding,
plywood).
Remember to create an airspace to the
exterior
finished wall does not contact the RBS sheeting, this will create a
path
of conduction and negate the performance of the RBS. Some products that
work
well for this are:
- 1/4" redwood
lath strips
- 3/4" pine
firring
strips
- Steel hat
channel
- Our new product
"Thermal Control
Membrane" (TCM)
does not
require an airspace as there are several layers of RBS with a patented method
of creating airspaces between each layer.
- Apply the RBS to the exterior first, then secure the
strip of choice on 16" centers. Attach the exterior wall to the strips. See
photo below
TCM applied in a
hot climate on an exterior wall which will be re-stuccoed. In cold climates, install on the
inside
just
behind the sheet rock and tape
the
seams.
Building
a
new home? Adding a room? Drop us email anytime
if you have questions.

Thermal Control Membrane
installed between the trusses in the attic. Easy to install with simple
tools, click here.
RBS
Chips, the most efficient attic insulation in the world
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